Provided with kind permission of Oz Clarke:

“Excellent. Much more livelier the Champagne we tasted the other week (1990 Perrier Jouet).

A chocolate, deep maturity. You can really taste the ripeness. I would assume it holds a higher RS (residual sugar) than more recent times though this style of wine, why not? If it held say 12 grams then it has done brilliantly, if it had held 3 grams of sugar then I do not think it would have done so well.

It is full of flavour, it has rich nutty flavours with a crisp and crunchy hazelnut. A chocolate depth that in no way over powers the wine. You have taken some really good apples and cut them in half then left them for half an hour and they have gone brown, it that’s sort of lovely (fruity) richness.

It’s tremendous.

1989 and 1990 are nice ripe years.”